Not so many years ago, few North American travelers other than wine lovers had ever heard of the northern Portuguese city of Porto, let alone traveled up the Douro River on which it sits, or into the wine-rich Douro Valley. That’s hardly the case today. The Vinha Boutique Hotel, which only opened upriver from the city in 2021, has immediately elevated the offerings in Porto and the Douro in both its design and culinary prowess.
The original mansion at Vinha Boutique Hotel.
Located opposite Porto on the left bank of the Douro, the nine-hectare property of the Leading Hotels of the World was renovated with a 16th-century Quinta as the heart—or, as some call it, a House of the Senses or palace. Essentially it is a rural manor house, now painted in a very modern warm colour that could be described as dark salmon red. Directly behind it is the hotel’s four-storey modern extension, a fresh and bold Bauhaus-style block, the shape of which is said to allude to the vineyard terraces upstream.
The collaborative effort was a private project by Joana Poças, whose family owns the property. Personal in the sense that she designed the stunning property herself. Poças has managed to strike a balance between a sophisticated city residence and a tranquil retreat outside the city.
The Reserva Bar at the Vinha Boutique Hotel.
If you walk past the understated check-in desk to the left and past a towering fireplace and a shelf, you’ll find a sunken living room of a lobby lounge that exudes a midcentury vibe. You’d almost expect to spot Cary Grant making out there. Art books and a huge painting by artist Ana Pais Oliveira hanging behind the sofa suggest there’s more art to come in the building.
Downstairs, a cozy library lounge also reflects the mid-century feel. A four-sided velvet sofa under a chandelier is both traditional and modern, complemented by dark woods and lacquered surfaces in Chinoiserie style and other nods to East Asian aesthetics.
As soon as you step outside, the river comes into view, just beyond the garden pool on one side and a beautifully landscaped pond area on the other – you can feel the river everywhere, all the time. In between, fountains and hedges are lit by elegant lanterns that look as though they have been there since the time of the great poet Fernando Pessoa in the early 20th century. The atmosphere is that of any waterfront villa you have seen on Lake Como.
The lobby of the Vinha Boutique Hotel.
Vinha Boutique faces east at this point on the Douro, as the river flows north for a short stretch, so sunrise is a reason to get up. To fully experience the river, take the property’s free motorboat service to Vila Nova de Gaia, the town opposite Porto famous for its old port wine houses. From there, take the cable car uphill and then walk across the famous Luís I iron arch bridge to Porto.
And if you were expecting a wine hotel given the name, Vinha Boutique will leave you confused. Yes, there’s a cool, artsy row of whitewashed grapevine trunks on the wall leading to Vinha Restaurant, which itself undoubtedly has a top-notch collection of wines. But the overarching aesthetic of half of the 38 rooms that has drawn a lot of attention is the high-end design element of the fashion house icons. You’ve got your rooms themed by Missoni, Hermès, Kenzo, Lacroix and more.
Rest assured, we’re not talking about celebrity-in-dress decor at some pseudo-trendy Las Vegas hotel, but rather rooms that are carefully decorated with rich and sumptuous fabrics, textiles and wallpapers from those properties’ own collections. Lots of lavender, deep teal, shiny platinum, purple and gold give some rooms a slightly boudoir feel; elements like freestanding bathtubs add to the effect.
The suites at Vinha Boutique Hotel are all decorated in designer style.
The property likes to describe its stay as a journey of the senses, and a key part of this is the intimate Vinha Restaurant, itself a design triumph. A fabric ceiling panel in the shape of extinct animals was made by the fine Dutch interiors company Moooi, while a beautiful Chinese vase serves as a centrepiece beneath a crystal chandelier.
Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa has cooked in London, Australia and the US, while his restaurant Alma in Lisbon has two Michelin stars. With the younger generation of Portuguese speaking impeccable English, your sommelier and waiter can give you a masterclass in the creativity behind his six-course tasting menu.
The more casual Terroir Brasserie with terrace seating is also the breakfast spot. The cheerful interior with ceramic figurines and rattan chairs somehow exudes a vaguely North Africa-meets-South America vibe.
Next to the restaurant, the Reserva Bar is like a velvety private club, with a ceiling carpet by carpet makers from Ferreira de Sá. Kudos also go to the lighting technician and whoever designed the pretty bartender jackets. Don’t miss the bar’s clever board game, where you roll the dice to choose your drink.
Indoor pool at the Sisley Paris SPA at the Vinha Boutique Hotel.
Another element for the senses at a lower level is Sisley Paris’ SPA, which has a hammam in its rooms. If you don’t like the sun, the spa’s indoor pool and jet bath are cozily dimly lit, while an olive tree just outside the door is perfectly framed by the lattice pattern of a continuous wall of windows. It doesn’t get more tranquil than that.
