MORRIS, Connecticut — I’ve never written a letter of apology to a resort, hotel or spa, but I feel compelled to say a sincere “I’m sorry” to Winvian Farm in western Connecticut. I was wrong, Winvian. Can you forgive me?
Last year, I wrote a story describing the Litchfield Hills Resort as a place to “live out all your bizarre hotel room fantasies.” Essentially, I reduced Winvian to an over-the-top, kitschy hotel with gimmicks.
The problem is that Winvian is not kitschy. It’s actually quite elegant. The resort has 18 guest houses and one suite, each with a different theme. I know this because I visited a friend who spent a weekend at the Helicopter Cottage, which had a real helicopter in it. She called me, her voice mixed with panic and amazement at the helicopter’s presence, and she told me that I absolutely had to see it with my own eyes and that she had hit the kitsch jackpot.
I visited her to see the helicopter inside the cottage walls and, more importantly, to make sure she wasn’t hallucinating. But that was all I had experienced at Winvian Farm. What more did I need to know? I’ve stayed in crazy hotels before. I knew the drill.
But after dismissing Winvian as a bizarre, expensive gimmick, Condé Nast Traveler readers voted it the best spa in the country, beating out several big-name wellness resorts. At first, I assumed there was another Winvian, perhaps one that didn’t have a helicopter cottage, a treehouse or a cabin that looked like it had been decorated by beavers with expensive taste.
I was completely unaware that the property even had a spa, let alone that the distinguished readers of Condé Nast Traveler would have Winvian on their radar. It was also named to the list of the 17 best wellness resorts in the world. Perhaps the most significant endorsement, however, came from Oprah Winfrey. The media mogul listed it in her first-ever Oprah Daily Hotel O-Wards last month under the category “journeys that change.” I also didn’t know that it is part of the renowned hotel group Relais & Châteaux.
I had clearly missed something — well, a lot. If Winvian was good enough for the almighty Oprah, I had no right to call it “a themed hotel with some of the strangest motifs I’ve ever seen.” August was National Wellness Month, so I decided that was an excellent excuse to change my mind and see if I was wrong. If Winvian had the best spa in the country, I’d have to do some investigative journalism, like get a facial or a massage. It also has the only AAA Five Diamond restaurant in Connecticut, so I’d have to try the menu there, too.
Per Globe policy, the resort was unaware a travel writer was on property when I checked into the Woodlands Cottage. The cottage is huge, with what appear to be several large trees growing through it, high ceilings, and windows everywhere. Outside, it’s surrounded by trees (Winvian sits on 113 acres), so luckily for the other guests, I was never seen completely naked soaking in the giant sunken tub. My room had a steam shower, mini waterfall, and every other creature comfort I could want, including a TV that popped out from the foot of the bed at the push of a button. My room had a theme, but also felt luxurious.
Luxury comes at a price; at Winvian, that price was $750 per night. On the plus side, the room was over 1,000 square feet. It felt like a real sanctuary and was incredibly peaceful.
I made an appointment for a facial at the much-lauded spa and watched every step to find out what made it so special. I was immediately horrified when the esthetician told me I looked 10 years younger than my age. “I bet you say that to all old queens,” I replied flirtatiously, secretly delighting in the compliment.
The facial was wonderful. At the end, I sat on a chaise lounge with a post-facial glass of champagne, looking out over the manicured lawn. I was so relaxed I almost dozed off. But if this was a wellness retreat, I had to try some activities that promote a healthy lifestyle. There were two bikes outside my cottage, so I cycled around the grounds to look at the architecture of the other cottages, then cycled to some nearby hiking trails.
When I finished, I thought I’d earned a dip in the heated pool as a reward for my efforts. I had dinner with the most WASP-like crowd I’d ever seen in the resort restaurant. Still, the summer salad (burrata, tomatoes, and green beans) was incredibly fresh, coming from the resort’s garden. The hand-rolled cavatelli in a rabbit ragu had just the right texture (not too chewy, not mushy) and spice. I was too full for dessert.
My final report: I can neither confirm nor deny that Winvian is the best spa in the country. To determine that, I would have to spend the next two years visiting spas. (Note to my editor: I am willing to spend the next two years visiting spas.) But I can say that it was a pleasant surprise, and the next time I come across a helicopter at a cottage, I won’t be so quick to judge.
155 Alain White Road, Morris, Connecticut, www.winvian.com860-567-9600.
Christopher Muther can be reached at [email protected]. Follow him @Chris_Muther and Instagram @chris_muther.
