There are some things you think will never happen to you in life. For me, missing a flight was one of them. When I watched airline shows where passengers had nervous breakdowns because they got distracted in a Costa Coffee, I always felt a little bit of schadenfreude. It would never happen to me.
Until it happened!
My girlfriend and I were invited to the ultra-glamorous, tranquil retreat of Cape of Senses Spa Hideaway, a specialist spa hotel overlooking Lake Garda in Italy, for a long weekend of rest and relaxation for the two of us.
© Alex MolingWhen we left the airport at 3:30 a.m., sleepy-eyed, we had already checked in. Our clear plastic bags of cosmetic products were neatly stacked. We prepared more than enough for this – and then, after a sausage sandwich and an exciting chat at Wetherspoons in Gatwick, we wanted to check our gate number and only saw the urgent sentence: “Gate closed”.
We ran to the gate anyway, hoping for the best. Because how often do these flights actually leave on time? How many times have you seen a noticeboard saying your gate is closed while you’re still standing aimlessly in line waiting to board? But no. On this one occasion, the airline was absolutely on time.
Arriving at the gate 30 minutes before departure was simply too late. We had missed our flight.
We were frantically making phone calls and searching Google Flights for information, trying to sort out the situation while the plane we were supposed to be flying on sat motionless on the tarmac, taunting us. I felt like I’d been thrust into an episode of Race Across the World. We needed to get to Verona. There were no more flights to Verona. Should we take a 12-hour journey via Oslo, Norway? Could we fly on to Rome and take a train across the country from there?
© Studio Lambert Ltd/Pete Dadds/BBCEventually we settled on a flight to Milan that same day and left the airport with our tails between our legs. For those who have never had this pleasure, walking against the flow of people heading out on holiday accompanied by a security guard is a truly humiliating experience. When we returned for the flight later that evening, we faced a new problem. We had booked the worst hostel in the world, assuming that the perfect flight planning by the airline that had spoiled us so much earlier in the day would get us there well before midnight.
But of course our new flight was delayed by almost two hours.
When we arrived in Milan 14 hours after our first trip to Gatwick, we ran to the taxi rank and told the driver that we needed to be there 10 minutes earlier than his satnav told him. The result was the most terrifying car ride in the world, as he accepted the challenge with gusto. When we shouted at him to slow down, he shouted cheerfully to us in the backseat, “You’ll lose five years of your life, but you’ll get there on time!”
He was right. The hostel receptionist, backpack on his back and ready to lock up, was amused to see us arrive, breathless and celebrating as if we had completed a marathon – and we were so relieved to be there that we hardly minded how it was. That was a good sign considering the hostel boasted an espresso cup for drinking water and a shared bathroom. We went to sleep, ready for the new day – which we hoped would bring some improvement.
Cape of the Senses, Italy
It’s a little panic-inducing when you know you’re supposed to be somewhere wonderful but you’re not. The morning after our race to the worst hostel in Milan, we jumped out of bed at the crack of dawn because we were now in Italy and we didn’t have a second to waste in getting to our destination and letting our vacation begin.
© Alex Moling
The train journey from Milan to Verona took just over an hour. As with all European rail connections, it was a pleasant and inexpensive journey. When I arrived at Verona station, a brisk driver was waiting for me with a sign with my name on it.
© Florian Andergassen
My friend shouted something like, “We’re saved!” And just like that, what could have been a pretty nice weekend trip turned into something wonderful in our eyes after such a chaotic 24 hours.
About Cape of Senses
Cape of Senses is an adults-only spa retreat opening in July 2023. It offers incredible panoramic views and the hotel is specifically designed so that every guest can enjoy the spectacular sunset over Lake Garda.
When we arrived at the hotel’s clean, bright and inviting reception, we were greeted with big smiles by the staff. “You finally made it to us,” one exclaimed before handing us gift bags full of chocolates.
© Alex Moling
After a welcome “Cape of Senses” cocktail on the balcony in the warm sun, we were shown to our room. With a huge double bed, a corner sofa and an impressive bathroom, we breathed a sigh of relief when we turned on the rainforest shower. Perfect!
Every amenity has been thought through with care and attention, from the shampoo and conditioner to the toiletries at the sink and a powerful hairdryer neatly tucked out of sight.
We headed straight for the spacious balcony area with its comfy sofa and cushions to take in the view over the perfectly maintained grounds which included two immaculate pools, a bar and restaurant area and sun loungers either by the pools or facing the truly stunning views of Lake Garda which were a great feature of the hotel.
Whether it was a bright blue day, at sunset or under clouds, the views were always simply fabulous and the sun glittered over the mountains and reflected in the waters of the famous, beautiful lake.
We immediately put on our swimsuits and new fluffy dressing gowns with matching slippers and headed to what the hotel is famous for: its beautiful spa facilities.
The spa offer
While we were both stressed from the previous day’s experience, my good friend Pascale had spent the flight with her eyes closed, probably time travelling so we could re-make our Wetherspoons Proseccos from 24 hours ago, so I had a feeling a massage would do her some good.
She spoke of her experience: “Usually when I’m getting a massage I’m busy – stressed even – trying to guess how much longer I can enjoy the massage I’m currently doing. ‘Ten more minutes,’ I thought to myself. ‘Only ten more minutes to enjoy this massage!!!’ And before I know it, the session is over. The tension in my back is probably gone, but I was too busy to enjoy the process of relaxation.
“I hope Cape of Senses will take it as the highest compliment that my mind was empty during the massage. An impenetrable fortress of nothingness. I wore only a tiny paper thong and didn’t think anything of it.
“My masseuse managed to relax me so much that all I could do was use her knuckles to loosen my shoulder knot or apply moderate pressure to the stretched area of my foot with her thumb… The only downside is that an hour really does fly by when you’re so relaxed that you’re not really paying attention!”
Thoughts on food
We ate in the hotel restaurant on two evenings and there were so many delicious dishes on the menu that we couldn’t have ordered them all, even though we would have loved to. Especially because there were different daily specials every day and it was clear that each dish was prepared with a lot of thought and care.
A trip to the olive grove
The hotel also offers a range of activities for guests who want something a little different to staying by the pool – and we took a lovely trip to a nearby olive grove where we learned about local olive oil production, walked around the beautiful grounds and enjoyed an olive oil tasting, followed by a delicious lunch on a sunny balcony with a glass of sparkling wine. Bellissimo!
© Alex Moling
In conclusion, despite a rocky start, we left Cape of Senses completely happy and rested, which speaks to the relaxing and calming atmosphere of the hotel. I just wish we could have stayed longer after a lost night, but I think it’s fair to say it made us appreciate the beautiful hotel all the more!
To book Cape of Senses Spa Hideaway, visit here.
