Demonstrating patriotism through food can be a fun way to celebrate a national holiday. We often see this around the Fourth of July, when fruit-decorated flag cakes, the iconic Bomb Pops, and other red-white-and-blue desserts come out in full force. The Mexican counterpart of the Fourth of July is September 16, the anniversary of the date in 1810 when a priest called his congregation together to fight against Spanish rule. El Grito, not Cinco de Mayo, is the true Mexican Independence Day and also marks the start of Hispanic Heritage Month, so this is one occasion when some chefs honor the Mexican flag in culinary form.
Gabriel Kolofon (head chef at the St. Regis Resort in Punta Mita, Mexico, since 2014) is known for saluting the flag with dishes like green guacamole with white cotija cheese and red pico de gallo. The dish may be simple, but the meaning is profound. The colors not only reflect the stripes of the Mexican flag, but – as Kolofon told the Today show – “The green color represents hope and prosperity, the white represents peace, and the red symbolizes the blood of Mexican heroes.”
This also applies to other foods and drinks that combine red, white and green colors, like tacos with salsa roja, salsa verde and crema, or a michelada made with tomato juice with a salt rim and a lime slice for garnish. So keep this color scheme in mind if you’re planning a Mexican-themed fiesta.
A traditional Mexican dish also honors the country’s flag
Chiles en nogada may be a more complex dish than Gabriel Kolofone’s colorful guacamole, but the inspiration for these stuffed green chiles with white sauce and red fruit is also patriotic. It dates back to 1821, when it was created by nuns in Puebla to honor Mexican army commander Agustín de Iturbide for signing a treaty for Mexican independence. Today, many Mexicans consider it the country’s national dish, and while it can be labor-intensive, it’s practically mandatory at El Grito celebrations.
Chiles en nogada is similar to chiles rellenos and, in a broader context, belongs to the worldwide family of stuffed peppers, which also includes Hungarian toltott peppers and Arabic filfil mahshi. The filling is made of ground meat and can include ingredients such as almonds, apples, olives, onions, peaches, pears, plantains, raisins and tomatoes. The green peppers are mildly spicy poblanos, while the white sauce is made of walnuts, almonds, cream and queso fresco. The red color comes from a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds used to garnish the dish.
Ironically, it was Spanish colonists who brought the fruit to Mexico, although pomegranates were used to commemorate the day the nation shook off its Spanish yoke, the last color of the flag. Spain and Mexico have long since ceased hostilities, however, and the pomegranates certainly add to the visual appeal of this tasty dish, perfect for any celebratory occasion.
