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Larceny Bourbon Review | Breaking Bourbon

Heaven Hill acquired the Old Fitzgerald brand in 1999. In September 2012, Heaven Hill launched Larceny as the “heir to the wheated bourbons that make up the historic Old Fitzgerald franchise.” According to Heaven Hill, “John E. Fitzgerald, a U.S. Treasury agent in the late 19th century, used his keys to access old whiskey barrels and steal the best bourbon for himself. When it came time to discard these barrels, some were unusually light and exceptionally smooth and became known around the distillery as ‘Fitzgerald barrels.'”

‍‍In July 2024, Heaven Hill announced new packaging for Larceny and its counterpart Larceny Barrel Proof Bourbon combined with a “Seize Tonight” campaign, which according to the company, “revolves around the idea that the most unforgettable moments happen when you let your curiosity run wild and take a little risk – just like John E. Fitzgerald himself.” In the packaging change, the glass bottle remains the same, but the label is replaced with a higher quality paper film that contains a story in UV ink that is clearly visible when viewed under a black light.

This is an updated review of Larceny Bourbon that we originally reviewed in 2019.

Light and airy scents of orange peel, apricot and peach form alongside sweeter notes of honey and sugar cane. A dash of cinnamon spice provides a welcome contrast and becomes more apparent once you notice it. The combination is pleasant but muted, which is ultimately held back by its lack of presence.

Cinnamon spice continues from the nose and lingers on the palate with increasing intensity, with layers of baking spices and nutmeg mixing in. Light honey and a hint of graham cracker complement the spice mix and create a sweet base. The mouthfeel is on the thin side, but the experience is still pleasant.

Honey and cinnamon flow into the nose on the finish. Brown sugar comes through along with light tobacco. Short to medium length, well built and nicely balanced, but light like the rest of the sip.

Some bourbons are unique, memorable and often polarizing, while others are popular, easy-drinking beverages. Larceny Bourbon falls into the second category, offering a light, easy-drinking sip that blends sweetness with spice and is balanced overall.

Larceny’s wheat mash is less common than bourbons with rye in the mash, but not overly common by today’s standards. Ultimately, the flavor profile is sweeter than most bourbons and stays on a consistent course from nose to palate to finish, which is common with wheat bourbons, which tend to have more straightforward flavor profiles.

Now, 12 years after its launch, a label refresh, albeit a subtle one, makes sense for the Larceny brand. Larceny Barrel Proof Bourbon gets a lot of attention, releasing three times a year and catching the attention of bourbon enthusiasts, including being named our No. 1 Whiskey of the Year in 2022. But while the Barrel Proof version is a high-octane surprise every time, the standard 92-proof Larceny is as consistent as ever.

Larceny’s most notable feature is its value for money. Larceny retails for just a little more than it did when it was launched in 2012, but it has the same flavor profile and quality. It’s a high-quality bourbon by today’s standards. There are few new entries on the market under $30, and those that remain from years past tend to be heritage brands from Kentucky’s major distilleries that have chosen to maintain their value for money.

Larceny was introduced in 2012, right as the modern bourbon renaissance was gaining momentum. Back then, there were plenty of bourbons under $30, and a new wheated bourbon made sense, as Maker’s Mark and Weller Special Reserve were the main options in that space. Both were priced similarly, and both were readily available and in abundance at the time (yes, that goes for Weller too). A lower pricing structure for bourbon in general, combined with a lack of wheated bourbons on the market, created an obvious opportunity. Heaven Hill capitalized on this opportunity by expanding its portfolio and entering Larceny into the same market category. Over a decade later, there are more wheated bourbons available from the many distilleries and producers across the country, but few stalwarts in that price range.

Granted, most consumers probably won’t be able to tell that Larceny is wheated by the taste itself, but its naturally sweet and straightforward flavor profile is largely determined by its wheat content. Ultimately, there is still something of a niche in the increasingly crowded bourbon market, and Larceny has done well to maintain its valuable position in the market over time.

Larceny is an easily available, accessible and popular bourbon that offers increasing value in today’s market.

Larceny Bourbon is probably not on many consumers’ bourbon lists, especially those who have expanded their horizons to new and unique whiskeys from the country’s numerous distilleries and producers. Enthusiasts will be more likely to be interested in Larceny’s cask strength counterpart, which ups the flavor intensity quite a bit. But the standard Larceny is a pleasant, easy-drinking bourbon that’s hard to not like and comes at an affordable price, and there are plenty of consumers looking for it. Die-hard fans of Maker’s Mark who haven’t tried it yet should buy it next. I’d also include it in the list of Kentucky bourbon classics under $30 that everyone should try. Overall, Heaven Hill has done a good job of maintaining Larceny’s quality and position in the market, and as its price continues to stay roughly the same, Larceny’s value proposition continues to grow.

By Bronte

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