As an icon of watchmaking, the Portugieser from IWC Schaffhausen surprises every year with exciting new releases. A highlight of the new releases in 2024 are exquisite dials in what the watch manufacturer calls “Horizon Blue” – they adorn the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar, Portugieser Chronograph and Portugieser Automatic models (40 mm and 42 mm).
Portuguese Perpetual Calendar
This year, a completely redesigned Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 was presented at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. It is available in four versions – two in 18-carat white gold with dials in Horizon Blue and Dune, while the other two models are presented in 18-carat Armor Gold with a dial in Obsidian or Silver Moon. The dials are elaborately finished with 15 layers of transparent lacquer and polished to a high gloss, giving them enormous visual depth. The case construction has been completely redesigned and refined with a slimmer case ring and double sapphire box glasses. All new models are powered by the IWC-manufactured caliber 52616 with Pellaton winding and a seven-day power reserve.
The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 (Ref. IW503703) features an 18-carat white gold case, a Horizon Blue dial, and rhodium-plated hands and appliqués. It is fitted with a light blue calfskin strap by Santoni.
In addition to the completely redesigned and refined case construction with a slimmer case ring – resulting in a slimmer side profile – the dial graphics have also been carefully revised and refined. The production process of the dials consists of up to 60 individual steps and is extremely complex and demanding.
The watch features IWC’s signature double moon display, inspired by nautical instruments, which shows the moon as it can be seen from the northern and southern hemispheres. Thanks to a precisely calculated reduction gear, the display only deviates from the moon’s actual orbit by one day after 577.5 years.
The 52616 caliber movement manufactured by IWC is composed of 385 individual parts and features an improved escapement that offers better protection against magnetic fields.
The introduction of the perpetual calendar in 1985 marked the beginning of IWC Schaffhausen’s extensive expertise in the field of mechanical calendar complications. Kurt Klaus created a complication that is remarkable in many ways. All displays are perfectly synchronized with each other and can be conveniently advanced using the crown. The calendar consists of just 81 parts, all housed in a 1.5 mm high module. With its ingeniously simple design, the complication perfectly embodies IWC Schaffhausen’s technical approach to fine watchmaking, which is characterized by functionality, efficiency and user-friendliness.
The calendar is mechanically programmed to run on a four-year cycle. Not only does it recognize the different lengths of the months, but it also automatically inserts a leap day at the end of February every four years. The mechanical program only requires a minor adjustment in centuries divisible by 100 when the leap year is skipped, for example in the year 2100 or 2200.
Portuguese Chronograph
Three new dial colours for the Portugieser Chronograph were presented at Watches and Wonders in Geneva and capture the unique atmosphere of different times of day and night. Portugieser Chronograph in Horizon Blue (Ref. IW371626) is a light blue hue reminiscent of the early afternoon sky and is delivered in combination with an 18-carat white gold case and a blue calfskin strap. It is powered by the IWC manufacture caliber 69355, a robust mechanical chronograph movement in a classic column wheel design. The dial and the polished, brushed case, the rhodium-plated hands and applications are complemented by a light blue calfskin strap with a color gradient by Santoni.
Its mechanical chronograph movement is designed for robustness, reliability and durability. The control of the chronograph function via a column wheel ensures that the individual phases of the switching sequence are clearly defined. In addition, a clear tactile resistance can be felt when the pushers are pressed. The seamless integration into the base movement and the careful coordination of all components help to ensure that the correct rate values are maintained even when the chronograph is used intensively. The vertical arrangement of the sub-dials, typical for IWC, shows the stopped minutes directly at the 12 o’clock position and places the small seconds at 6 o’clock. This arrangement improves readability and has become a characteristic design feature of the Portugieser Chronograph.
Portuguese Automatic (42 mm and 40 mm)
The new Portugieser Automatic 42 and Portugieser Automatic 40 models feature a completely redesigned case construction with a slim side view, making them particularly elegant and sophisticated. Box glass sapphire crystals offer an excellent view of the dials, which are elaborately finished with 15 layers of transparent lacquer. Enlarged sapphire glass windows on the back reveal the IWC-made movements of the 52000 and 82000 caliber families, both of which feature Pellaton winding systems with ceramic components.
Selected models are presented in various new design codes, including Horizon Blue – it reflects the never-ending cycle of day and night and underlines the timeless appeal of the Portugieser design. The watch is characterized by its balanced dial design with the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock and the small seconds at 9 o’clock.
The new Portugieser Automatic 42 and 40 are timeless and modern instrument watches that fully preserve the DNA of the original model from 2000. Among the six new versions launched in these two sizes, the combination of an 18-carat white gold case, a Horizon Blue dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, and a Santoni blue calfskin strap with a gradient finish and an 18-carat white gold folding clasp is sure to be a real eye-catcher.
The information in this article is correct at the time of publication.
